Question 1

What do you do when ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

In ice climbing, you use the frozen waterfall in winter to climb it. You use two ice axes, crampons and ice screws to get up safely and well.

Question 2

Who invented ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Ice climbing originated in Scotland. Due to the damp, cold climate, it is still one of the best places to practice the sport today. In the 1950s, for example, the gullies and couloirs on Ben Nevis were climbed as ice tours.

Question 3

What is the difference between ice climbing and drytooling?

Accepted Answer

Drytooling uses the same equipment as ice climbing, i.e. ice axe and crampons, and uses them on rock faces instead of ice. In ice climbing, you use the ice axe and crampons to hit the holds and steps, whereas in drytooling you can only hook.

Question 4

How safe / dangerous is ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Like any sport, ice climbing has its risks. By belaying with ice screws and the rope, you can greatly reduce these. The risks are mainly due to fluctuating temperatures, snow lenses and hanging icicles.

Question 5

Where can I find topos for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Ice climbing topos can be found sporadically on the internet or on social media. But there is no larger collection here. The best books are still by Urs Odermatt, Cold Ice - Hot Rock.

Question 6

Do you have to ice climb on a north face?

Accepted Answer

In a north face there are often passages where you have to ice climb. Depending on the current conditions, there may be good firn. The classic north face tours often have ice passages (the Spider in the Eiger north face, the Nollen on the Mönch, the Matterhorn north face).

Question 7

Is there a recommended book on the subject of ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

The best books are those by Urs Odermatt: Hot Ice - Cold Rock, Band West and Ost. The technique and tactics are described quite well in the SAC book "Bergsport Winter".

Question 8

Is ice climbing Olympic?

Accepted Answer

Currently, ice climbing is not an Olympic sport. However, there is a chance that ice climbing will be included in the Olympics as a sport in the next few years. Currently, ski mountaineering, i.e. ski touring races and climbing are Olympic.

Question 9

Which basic course / beginner course can you recommend?

Accepted Answer

We always offer ice climbing courses. Our ice climbing courses are designed to build up skills step by step. From ice climbing courses for beginners and novices to challenging coaching courses, we offer a variety of courses:

Question 10

Where can you go ice climbing in Switzerland?

Accepted Answer

You can go ice climbing in many places in Switzerland. As soon as the temperatures are low enough for long enough and there is some water in an area, you can go climbing:

In the canton of Bern:

Kandersteg
Adelboden
Engstligenalp

In the canton of Graubünden:

Avers, Averstal, Campsut, Cresta
Safiental
Davos
Vals
Valsertal

In the Engadine:

Pontresina
Corvatsch
Piz Bernina
Maloja

In the canton of Valais:

Saas Fee
Zermatt

In Liechtenstein:

Malbun

In Central Switzerland:

Schächental
Schöllenen near Andermatt
Muotathal
Urnerboden

Question 11

Scale

Accepted Answer

For ice climbing, the highest difficulty is WI7, overhanging and only a thin layer of ice.

Question 12

What scale is used in ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

The WI1-7 scale is used here. WI stands for Water Ice, originally from Canada. Leisurely tours can be found in the WI3 - 4 difficulty level. In this PDF the Overview of the different levels of difficulty.

Question 13

How does the technique work in ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

In ice climbing there is a standard form of movement to get as much as possible out of the legs. This involves going from the basic stable position with the hollow cross into the movement and ending back in the basic position. The points are:

Stable basic position
Plan the following movement phase.
Prepare the train with the feet.
Set ice tool.
Use the feet to bring the weight under the ice tool and
resume the stable basic position.

In the basic position, you attach the belay points by screwing in the ice screws and hooking in the rope.
For the descent, people often abseil down the route. Ice hourglasses are made for this purpose.

Question 14

What are the tips for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Bring a sufficient number of gloves.
Have a gas cooker and bialetti with you.
Study the route carefully and memorise the course.

The best way to learn ice climbing is to take a course.

Question 15

What is special about lead climbing in ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

You have to attach the intermediate belays in the ice yourself. To do this, you screw the ice screws into the ice. This takes time and you hang on one arm for a long time. This is rigorous and mentally demanding.

Question 16

What conditions are required for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

In ice climbing, it is crucial how the ice has grown and how much snow was still in play. There are several typical forms of ice that are difficult to climb and secure:

Ice shield: normal difficulty to climb and good protection
Cauliflower ice: easier to climb, more difficult to belay
Tube ice: difficult to climb and difficult to belay

Particular attention should be paid to the snow passages and snow lenses, as you could slip on them on the ice.

Question 17

At what temperatures can you go ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

It is ideal to climb in the temperature range where the ice is frozen.

In Switzerland, it is recommended to climb between -5°C and -1°C. In this range, the ice has typically grown and is therefore also low-stress. At lower temperatures, the ice becomes brittle and splintery. At higher temperatures, a lot of water flows and the ice becomes softer, so-called soft ice. This can be very easy to climb if you catch it at the right time.

In Canada, for example, the ice often grows at very low temperatures (-20°C). So it is also best to climb at these temperatures.

Question 18

How do you determine ice quality (in ice climbing)?

Accepted Answer

The quality of the ice can be determined from its colour and shape. For example, beautiful blue ice that is frozen smooth is perfect for climbing. White ice or dark, black ice that has grown in tubes is of poor quality.

Question 19

Where will the Swiss Ice Climbing Championships take place?

Accepted Answer

The Swiss Ice Climbing Championships take place in Saas-Fee takes place. There, the parking garage, which has a circular, open driveway, is prepared and set up. A spectacle also for the spectators.

Question 20

Where will the World Ice Climbing Championships take place?

Accepted Answer

This will be carried out by the UIAA organised. The destinations have to apply to the UIAA, which then selects the location. In 2022, the World Cup was also held in Saas Fee.

Question 21

Where can you train ice climbing (in summer)?

Accepted Answer

In summer it is difficult to train ice climbing. Some climbing gyms offer drytooling corners. Drytooling outside is generally possible, but not the coolest in summer. On the glaciers and in crevasses, climbing can also be done in summer. This is fun and spectacular! You can experience this in some of our high altitude courses.

Question 22

Which exercises are good for preparation?

Accepted Answer

Ice climbing mainly requires grip strength. So general climbing or pull-ups on ice climbing holds is recommended.

Question 23

What do you need for ice climbing (equipment)?

Accepted Answer

For ice climbing you need the following:
Crampons & Ice Tools
Ice screws & Express slings
Impregnated half ropes
Helmet
Climbing harness with tuber, carabiner, slings, rope and threader
Crampon proof mountain boots
Warm dresses
and best of all a gas cooker with Bialetti

Question 24

Which jacket is suitable for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

You need a robust, waterproof Gore-Tex jacket for this. The lined rain jackets are impractical. This can be used for all mountain sports.

Question 25

Which trousers are ideal for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Here, too, you need waterproof trousers. Suitable is one with a reinforced foot area, as you often hack in with the crampons. Ventilation zips are also recommended.

Question 26

Which gloves keep you warm when ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Here you need several pairs of gloves. Thick ones for warmth and thin ones for climbing. The gloves you wear when climbing get wet very quickly. So it's worth bringing 2 or 3 pairs.

Question 27

Which shoes are suitable for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

For this you need fully crampon-compatible mountain boots. It is important that the sole does not bend when you stand on the front prongs of the crampons. It is also pleasant to climb in light, ascent-oriented ski touring boots. Of course, it is important that the shoes are well insulated.

Question 28

Can all crampons be used for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Basically yes. The flat crampons for normal alpine tours are only suitable for your first climb. As soon as the icefall becomes steeper, you can only climb comfortably with steep ice crampons. The front teeth of these are serrated and horizontal.

Question 29

Which ice axe is the right one for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Ice climbing is only possible to a limited extent with ice axes, i.e. with the standard mountaineering ice axes. With two Sum'Tec Picks from Petzl it can be climbed quite well. With lighter picks it is no longer optimal. For real ice climbing you use ice tools.

Question 30

Which ice tool is perfect for ice climbing?

Accepted Answer

Widely used and a super device is the Nomic from Petzl. For ice climbing it is recommended to use the ice pick.

Question 31

Which ice screws, in which length do you need?

Accepted Answer

We recommend roughly the following breakdown:

10cm: 2 pieces
13cm: 2 pieces
16cm: 4 pieces
19cm: 4 pieces
22cm: 0 piece

Question 32

How many ice screws do you need?

Accepted Answer

It makes sense to bring about 12 ice screws for a normal rope length.

Question 33

How long does an ice screw last in the ice?

Accepted Answer

In the shade at temperatures below 0°C, an ice screw lasts a very long time. Only in warm temperatures and especially when the sun shines directly on the head of the ice screw is there a risk of melting.

Question 34

Why are ice screws hollow?

Accepted Answer

Ice screws cut into the ice and this exits through the inner opening. This makes the screws much lighter. It needs the large diameter for the stability of the screw in the ice.

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